The road between Cairo and Alexandria through the desert has changed a lot over the years. At one time it really was a desert road and you drove through miles of sand, but now irrigation has turned the desert to green. When the road was built a rest house was established at roughly the halfway point. You could get gas, have a bite to eat, a cup of tea and buy odds and ends. Later a more modern rest house appeared across the road on the side of travel to Alexandria, leaving the old rest house on the Alex to Cairo side of the road. Now most travelers will make a U-turn to go to the new shops, but there is a weary loveliness to the almost empty restaurant in the old place.