One of the first things to hit me on my first visit to Cairo in 1976 was the sheer number of horses that I saw working in the streets, pulling carts, pulling carriages, even being ridden. And on top of that they all were Arabs. To a horsenut from North America, this was better than heaven. Later I learned that most of the Arabian horses in many parts of the world passed through Cairo at various times during the discovery of Arabs by horsemen in Europe and North America. The Egyptian Agricultural Organisation is probably the worst-named stud in the entire world. In the Ain Shams area of Cairo, its shady paddocks contain hundreds of beautiful Arabian horses who can track their ancestry back to the deserts of Arabia. Some of these ancestors were captured in battle during the 1800's. These days the EAO is the site of a horse show every fall that attracts horses from Europe and the Arab countries each trying to win a trophy in its age group for being the most beautiful. That much loveliness is hard to take.